Yeah, it took some years before I finally decided to stop in Heltermaa on my trips to the lovely island of Hiiumaa, Estonia...

Once on the island, I guess it's human nature to rush forwards! One has the feeling that one wants to see as much as possible during the short time the visit lasts. So, onwards towards the Kõpu lighthouse, Kassari region (bird-watcher's Paradise), the regional capital of Kärdla... A natural way of thinking, indeed.

But when I finally stopped in Heltermaa, I quickly realized that actually there is no reason to hurry farther.

It was an exeptionally warm beginning of May. People in shorts and t -shirts already.

After a well-slept night and a tasty breakfast, a bicycle trip towards Kassari. A few kilometres on the gravel road to Sarve peninsula, and it all became very clear: The nature and athmosphere of Hiiumaa can be caught right here!

The road slopes and forests filled with anemones!

White anemones by the millions. Yellow anemones can be found more within a hectacre than what one can expect to find from all of our Åland archipelago together. Blue anemones abundantly, as well.

There's a sign: Later on, in a few weeks, that's where you can find rare orchids! Truly, we have entered Paradise!

Behind those pine trees: the glimmering sea.

I find my sanctuary from the empty beach.

No hurry anywhere. Just resting one's bones on the carpet of reeds. How sweet.

Bliss!

A lonely group of cowslips nearby. Photographing them for an hour. If the photos turn out well - great! If not, that's also fine...

The seabirds make noise on the small islands nearby. They seem to be very active this time of the year. The Mating Game going on...

Well, well, well - look at that! A group of geese fly over the head only about 50 metres above! Springtime has arrived to the North!

And there is not a soul on sight anywhere.

Compared to neighbouring Saaremaa, Hiiumaa has been saved from the evils of mass tourism.

But enough of this beach - it's time to jump on the bike and continue the day's
journey, towards the island of Kassari.

The "long and winding road" - a gravel one - leads through a small village. A middle-aged woman is carrying firewood on a courtyard. Her face has the expression of a person who has done hard physical outdoor work all her life. Makes me think... When was the last time I saw a woman of such appearance in Finland? Perhaps sometime in the 1960s?

While cyckling, one cannot help noticing how unlittered the roadside is. Well, true, some minor littering has begun to appear quite recently, due to the rising standard of living, but still... Almost unspoiled!

All this is thanks due to the relatively long ferry trip (about 1,5 hours) to Hiiumaa. The most restless souls find it too difficult to reach the island. And if some trouble-makers should happen to reach this Paradise, even those persons would probably calm down because of the tranquil and therapeutic athmosphere...

A few more kilometres, and we reach the lands of the great Suuremõisa Estate.

There's a little shop here, and a splendid park surrounding the manor.

The buildings serve nowadays as a school.

We are now in very historical surroundings, habited once by both the famous Ungern von Stenberg and the de la Gardie -families. The later is well known also in Finnish history.

Concerning the Ungern von Sternberg family, an interesting article was published in The Guardian on June 14th, 2008: A book-review of James Palmer's work "The Bloody White Baron", Baron Roman von Ungern von Stenberg's fascinating life in Siberia and East Asia after the October Revolution. He is told to have been so bloody to make even Tsingis Khan seem like a boy scout! Who would have guessed that the peaceful surroundings of Suuremõisa, Hiiumaa could give birth to such a monstruous character! And, oddly enough, even a Buddhist one!

After our break in Suuremõisa the route continues towards Kassari. We cyckle past Aino And Oskar Kallas' summer villa, open for public by arrangement. Quite a different surrounding from the High Society of London in the 1920s, where Oskar served as a diplomat and Finnish -born writer Aino (maiden name Krohn) was a celebrated beauty socializing with G.B. Shaw and the like.

At sunset a fantastic photo-session at Sääre Tirp. Certainly one of the most beautiful spots in the world. The walk on the path - surrounded by tall junipers - to this tip of land, streching into the sea, is an experience in itself.

There, the Basic Elements wait for us: The sea, the high skies, the rounded stones on the beach. What else could one hope for? - Except for a bottle of tasty Estonian lager, which we have now succeeded in cooling in the cold May seawater...;-)

A couple of swans make their way across the silent sea. A red sunset on the background. Fabulous ending for a Perfect Day!

And this wonderful day started at Heltermaa Hotell. Just an ideal day's journey - not too long. Abundant time for rest, photography and idling around.

Also, the price-level of Heltermaa Hotell is right: Ideal for the low-budget -traveller. One doesn't have to spoil one's mood by economic worries.

Neat, cozy rooms with sea-views - I slept the window open already in the beginning of May. No noise from outside during the night.

A filling breakfast, gets you going well into the afternoon. Sauna. Conference room and facilities. Program services. The restaurant serves beverages, snacks and light meals.

And to top it all, the ferry to mainland Estonia leaves by the hotel. Makes it possible to take maximum advantage of even the visit's last day to Hiiumaa, have a good rest at the hotel and jump into the morning ferry back to the mainland well-slept and full of energy.

Splendid, indeed!

Sääre Tirp